ISSUE 67

RELEASE DATE: 21 Nov, 2016

EDITORIAL BY William Wroblewski

In many parts of rural Bolivia, whether people have come together to hold a community meeting or to celebrate a milestone or holiday, there are many occasions for an apthapi, or communal meal. Most of my experiences with these events have been in areas populated by potato and quinoa farmers and llama herders. In these areas, women gather in a nice shady spot and empty their aguayos of their contents: boiled potatoes, chuño, corn, cheese. . . whatever they can bring from their small farms. At an apthapi, everyone contributes food to share, which is laid out in a long line on the ground, mountains of local foods cooked separately but brought together into one heaping mound.

Once everyone sits around the spread, the real purpose of the gathering begins. After a short greeting and message of thanks from community leaders, everyone leans in and takes their first sampling. Their bare hands search for the perfect potato and tear off a small piece of cheese to accompany it. Their fingers begin to peel the red and brown skins, dropping the casing in the ground to reveal the potatoes’ white, starchy flesh. Everyone digs in, laughing and chatting all the way.

I once described an apthapi as ‘a potluck on the Altiplano’, but the truth is it is more than that. It is an old tradition with unspoken yet set rules: where people sit, who eats first, how to give thanks. The event happens with a surprising amount of order if you look closely. But many of these rules are in place to set expectations, to make sure things go smoothly. With a communal understanding of what is taking place, you can focus on what is important: spending time with the people around you. You can talk business, ask others about their families, trade jokes. It is usually held outside, and the entire community is present. With communal food as the binding factor, it is a gathering not to be missed if given the opportunity to attend.

In this issue of Bolivian Express, we looked at all forms of gatherings, and how opportunities to come together with others make for great experiences. We visited a fine-dress motorcycle rally that brought dapper motorists together for a good cause in Cochabamba. We visited mosques in La Paz and saw how this community prays together to practice their faith. We rocked out with heavy metal fans and watched young women skateboard together, both groups collectively defying community expectations to find a home amongst their like-minded friends. And we learned what it means to be a citizen in a large city, the permanent gatherings many of us navigate every day.

With every issue of this magazine, we try to bring everyone together to share our Bolivian experiences. Our writers tell their stories and adventures in this great country, and we amplify the voices of the people who make Bolivia a fascinating place. While not everyone may be lucky enough to experience a Bolivian apthapi, hopefully this magazine allows people to connect with Bolivia in the same deep way. And hopefully you will enjoy the stories we experience together as we explore the people and places around us.

ARTICLES FROM THIS ISSUE

Tinku

21 Nov, 2016 | Karina Guzman

Illustration: Hugo L. CuellarA Festival of Ritualized ViolenceEven in Bolivia, a country well known for its many folkloric dances, the Tinku stands out. It is a dance that immediately catches your eye...

All Together for Bolivia

21 Nov, 2016 | Adriana Murillo

Photo: Courtesy of Revolución JigoteTackling the Challenges of Urban Life in La Paz and Santa CruzWe've all struggled in the chaos of the cities of Bolivia. We’ve seen garbage in the streets, old buse...

People of the Teléferico

21 Nov, 2016 | Jet De Kort

Photos: Jet De KortCommuters Line Up to Go to the CityIt’s 6:30 am when the cabins start moving at the teleférico station in Ciudad Satélite, a neighborhood in El Alto. People line up in the dew, wait...

Iconoclasta

21 Nov, 2016 | Valeria Salinas Maceda

Photos: Dario MonsterBreaking Images With A Fashion ShowThis year, fashion designer Galo Sanchez selected the mystical Lake Titicaca as the location for the fourth installment of the Iconoclasta Fashi...

Cochabamba and Chrome

21 Nov, 2016 | Toby Clyde

Photo: Matt ColemanClassic bikers in sharp suits raise awareness of men’s healthLike a sea captain with an expensive taste in motorbikes, Nicanor Calderón arrives, dressed not so much to impress as to...

In a League of Their Own

21 Nov, 2016 | Izabela Wlodarczyk

Photos: Milton Arellano Female Skateboarders Break Down Stereotypes in La PazEvery day, skateboarders gather in plazas all over La Paz to try out new tricks, learn from their friends, and wind down. T...

Muslims in Bolivia

21 Nov, 2016 | Jet de Kort

Illustration: Hugo L. CuellarBehind the Walls of a Local Mosque“Allahu Akhbar” (Allah is the Greatest) sounds through the prayer room of the As-Salam mosque on Friday afternoon, the holy day for Musli...

Commercial Sexual Exploitation

21 Nov, 2016 | Jet de Kort

Illustration: Hugo L. CuellarBattling Human Trafficking in Bolivia‘We invite you to a briefing about job opportunities in France’s most prestigious hotel chain: "Hôtel Fleur de l'Ixora". We are lookin...

The Sound of the Fury

21 Nov, 2016 | Cecilia Saavedra

Photos: William WroblewskiBolivia’s Metal SceneAt a metal concert, it’s easy to find friends, beer, brutal music, and cool performances. Among the numerous tattoos peeking out from under even more num...