La Paz, in Gold and Blue

23 May, 2017 | Sophie Hogan

Going Out and Tourism

Photos: Sophie Hogan

Text: Aida Muratoglu

when they told us the sun would set earlier in May than it did in December

I felt a tinge of betrayal

winter in La Paz nothing like the

snow day-filled, salty-shoed, air-too-cold-it-burns-your-lungs

season I grew up on


instead, shade too cold, sun too hot when this removed from the

mechanised movements of sea level

fruit eerily ripe

sold in streets of worn out brick and midday salteña stops

under sweet tangle of telephone wires


5 am El Alto cloudy purple api stewing in pots

waiting to singe morning-bleary tongues

dogs sniff at pedestrian feet for bite of pastel

melted cheese stretching from pastry to mouth

fluttery clouds obscure regal Illimani


later, patchwork flicker of lights from warm comfort of yellow teleférico

the resilient speed of this city filtering through salchipapa-filled stomachs

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