Social issues

LOCKED UP

21 May, 2014 | Shanti Das

Life Continues Inside the Women’s Prison of Obrajes Her name in English means ‘hope’—ironic and perhaps understandable, then, that her eyes betray her as lacking in her namesake. Nestled betwee...

TRADITIONAL BOLIVIAN FAST FOOD

29 Apr, 2014 | Laura Van Antwerp

Coming Soon to a Food Court Near You! Reflecting on traditional Bolivian cuisine, there are a few staples that immediately come to mind. The plato paceño features the unlikely combination of corn...

CARNE DE LLAMA

29 Apr, 2014 | Alan Pierce

The corral of llamas gazed haughtily at me. Their jaws chewed side-to-side, a short row of buckteeth jutting out to form an overall aura of aloof heartiness. I had come to this remote llama farm in th...

ELI’S AND THE COMANDANTE

29 Apr, 2014 | Neil Suchak

Che Guevara’s Pizza Diaries En route from La Paz to El Alto you are likely to drive past a roadside statue of Ernesto Che Guevara, the Argentine revolutionary whose iconic face has come to adorn any...

LOS HELADEROS

29 Apr, 2014 | Ollie Vargas

The Precarious Prospects of La Paz’s Ageing Ice-Cream Men A ubiquitous sight across the plazas and pedestrian walkways of La Paz are the city’s army of ‘heladeros’ (ice-cream men). Mostly male an...

AGAINST THE GRAIN:

29 Apr, 2014 | Penelope Cartwright

The Unconventional (or Downright Cranky) Restaurateurs of La Paz Even before I learned that this issue of Bolivian Express would be food themed, my housemates were already overwhelming with me with...

AGUA = GUERRA

27 Mar, 2014 | Alison Walsh

When water was worth fighting for In the year 2000, the streets of Cochabamba were turned into a battleground, as the city’s residents protested against the privatisation of their water supply, and...

THE CARNAVAL WATER WARS

27 Mar, 2014 | Laura Van Antwerp

THWACK! I knew the minute I felt it hit my backside. I has just experienced my first globo attack. I spun around to find myself face to face with a grinning boy, no older than ten years of age, c...

NO MORE HEROES

27 Mar, 2014 | Alison Walsh

Eduardo Abaroa: Man and Myth In the centre of the main square of the Sopocachi district of La Paz there sits a man. Perched on top of his plinth, he is a Bolivian hero, a symbol of national pride an...

THEY SEE ME ROLLIN´

08 Mar, 2014 | Wilmer Machaca

TORITOS A new form of transport has descended on El Alto. Toritos (‘little bulls’) or mototaxis, as they are otherwise known, have made it their aim to conquer the whole of this ever-expanding ci...

THEY BATIN´

08 Mar, 2014 | Claudia Méndez

THE NEPTUNE The Neptune also known as the aguatero is one of the mightiest of La Paz’s police riot control water engines. It has a 2000 liter capacity and 2 power jet motors, yet this aquatic monste...

LA ESPERA

08 Mar, 2014 | Nia Haf

Seconds, Minutes, Hours It's rush hour in La Paz and hoards of people are making their way through the city. Queues of pedestrians begin to form as people wait to return to El Alto, some heading...

THE BUS WARS

08 Mar, 2014 | Finn Jubak

Minibus Drivers Are Furious About the Puma Katari Buses...But No One Else Seems to Mind On January 20, minibus drivers marched across La Paz and gathered in the Plaza Mayor to protest against...

MORNING ON A MINIBUS

08 Mar, 2014 | Finn Jubak

La Paz is due for a huge change in how its citizens commute. Finn Jubak tags along on a venerable mode of transportation that might soon be a relic of bygone days. I stood in front of the Iglesia...

THE TELEFÉRICO

28 Feb, 2014 | Alison Walsh

From El Alto to Zona Sur La Paz: a unique city, scrambling its way up slopes so steep that only a madman, you would think, could possibly imagine building anything here. And its transport problem...