Food

El Chino Renegón
28 May, 2015 | Sophia Vahdati
PHOTO: NICK SOMERSBehind a nameless, unimposing, wooden door on avenida Ecuador is the shabby and famous restaurant, ‘El Chino Renegón’. The name of the place is unofficial, gifted to this delicious T...

Suspect Drinks
28 May, 2015 | Rodrigo Barrenechea
It remains clear in my mind: the memory of the day I first entered Layka Restaurant on Linares street. More clear yet rests the mental image, burnt into my retina, of the first thing that you see upon...

How Many Salchipapas?
28 May, 2015 | Phoebe Roth
PHOTO: NICK SOMERSLegend has it that the man selling salchipapas on the edge of Plaza España has been around for decades. Jackie, who works in the bar Diesel on Avenida 20 de Octubre, claims that when...

Keen on Quinoa - Emily G - Draft
28 May, 2015 | Emily Gray
PHOTO: PABLO PANIAGUA WWW.SINMOTIVO.COMFor thousands of years, quinoa was a cheap, common, staple food grain for the people of the Andes. In recent years, though, the demand for quinoa in western cult...

Crouch Down and Eat: Street Food in La Paz
28 May, 2015 | Adriana Murillo
ILLUSTRATION: OSCAR ZALLESIt can be said that a large percentage of Bolivians have eaten agachaditos. The word ‘agachadito’ means ‘crouch’, but in reality, it is more than its literal meaning. It mean...

TRADITIONAL BOLIVIAN FAST FOOD
29 Apr, 2014 | Laura Van Antwerp
Coming Soon to a Food Court Near You! Reflecting on traditional Bolivian cuisine, there are a few staples that immediately come to mind. The plato paceño features the unlikely combination of corn...

LLAJUA
29 Apr, 2014 | Ollie Vargas
Llajua, the Bolivian hot sauce, is not just popular, but also an essential part of Bolivia’s social fabric. It’s eaten in every corner of Bolivia, transcending cultural and regional divides, from the...

THE GREEN GHOST OF LA PAZ
29 Apr, 2014 | Neil Suchak
Ajenjo, the Bolivian Absinthe As you walk into Café Etno on Calle Jaen you might be forgiven for thinking that you were no longer in La Paz, but had been transported to a bar in a trendy district of...

CARNE DE LLAMA
29 Apr, 2014 | Alan Pierce
The corral of llamas gazed haughtily at me. Their jaws chewed side-to-side, a short row of buckteeth jutting out to form an overall aura of aloof heartiness. I had come to this remote llama farm in th...

ELI’S AND THE COMANDANTE
29 Apr, 2014 | Neil Suchak
Che Guevara’s Pizza Diaries En route from La Paz to El Alto you are likely to drive past a roadside statue of Ernesto Che Guevara, the Argentine revolutionary whose iconic face has come to adorn any...

ARCHEOLOGY OF A PALM HEART
29 Apr, 2014 | Andres Pereira Paz
Inside Gustu’s research lab Since its doors first opened in 2012, Gustu has quickly earned its place as one of the top restaurants in South America, and possibly even the world. Gustu has establish...

NOT FOR THE FAINT OF STOMACH
29 Apr, 2014 | Chloe Barran
An exploration of Bolivia’s most unexpected delicacies Cabecitas The restaurant El Solar de las Cabecitas is an open room painted with warm red and orange. Decorative mirrors cover the back wall...

LOS HELADEROS
29 Apr, 2014 | Ollie Vargas
The Precarious Prospects of La Paz’s Ageing Ice-Cream Men A ubiquitous sight across the plazas and pedestrian walkways of La Paz are the city’s army of ‘heladeros’ (ice-cream men). Mostly male an...

AGAINST THE GRAIN:
29 Apr, 2014 | Penelope Cartwright
The Unconventional (or Downright Cranky) Restaurateurs of La Paz Even before I learned that this issue of Bolivian Express would be food themed, my housemates were already overwhelming with me with...