Culture

EL 2

28 Feb, 2014 | Wilmer Machaca

These famous blue buses began circulating around the city of La Paz in 1938, and have since become iconic. They barely need signs anymore as they are instantly recognisable from as far as the eye c...

THIS WAS KILOMETER ZERO

28 Feb, 2014 | Nia Haf

La Paz’s train station has been closed for passenger services since 1996. The abandoned building is now engulfed by the construction site of the city's new teleférico and yet there are clear remind...

TO EL ALTO BY BIKE

28 Feb, 2014 | Alison Walsh

Why getting up the hills is only part of the challenge. La Paz is not a cyclist’s city. A child wobbling around the Plaza Avaroa, a group of lads on BMXs doing tricks, someone slowly plodding up...

CHOLITA POWER

28 Feb, 2014 | Wilmer Machaca

It’s been 10 months since El Alto introduced their Municipal Transport Guards (GMTs). It is the city’s response to the friendly zebras roaming the streets of La Paz, cartwheeling across the s...

Editorial

17 Dec, 2013 | Amaru Villanueva Rance

In November 2012 we published an issue titled ‘Passing’; a monochrome collection of articles and images on the more solemn aspects of Todos Santos, the day in which the living remember and pay trib...

Revolutionary Spirit

16 Dec, 2013 | Amalie Mersh

The 10-year anniversary for Octubre Negro has recently passed—a dark mark reminding Bolivians that standing up for yourself can lead to great sacrifices. Talking to a journalist, a political analys...

Sirenas, Anchanchos, Antawallas

16 Dec, 2013 | Finn O'Neill

Finn O’Neill listens in on the fleeting whispers of Bolivia’s oral literature tradition and encounters three recurring spirits. SIRENAThe Sirena is a spirit native to Lake Titicaca, in particular...

The bread of the dead

07 Dec, 2013 | Christina Grünewald

Illustrated by Oscar ZallesWords by Christina Grünewald 1) Wait for the last week of October to have your t’antawawas ready in time for Todos Santos on the 2nd of November—DON’T FORGET to book a...

De terror

07 Dec, 2013 | Asia Hart-Eason

Asia Hart-Eason locks the door, grabs a blanket, and takes a tour through some of Bolivia’s best -and worst- horror films. I'm sitting on a couch watching a woman take a hearty bite out of a man'...

Hallow souls

07 Dec, 2013 | Daniela Pérez

In the residential Zona Sur district, children go from door to door demanding sweets in exchange for a laugh or a fright. Elsewhere, children from the countryside approach mourners in the cemetery...

CHOLITA FASHION

20 Oct, 2013 | Modupe Sanusi

A state secret I find myself in the outskirts of La Paz, close to el Cementerio General. As soon as I leap out of the crowded minibus I am immediately greeted with curious stares from every direc...

ROOTS AND HIGHLIGHTS

20 Oct, 2013 | Amalie Mersh

With the demise of classical hairdressing salons in La Paz, a new generation steps forth to occupy their place. To understand this shift taking place within the world of hairdressing, I’ve met two...

ZEF

20 Oct, 2013 | Alexandra Meleán

Fashion designers Valeria Wilde and Carola Valdivia experiment with eco-friendly fashion in Bolivia, introducing ZEF, a recycled clothing brand launching this November. Bolivian Express gets an ex...

AGUJAS, TINTA, PASIÓN

20 Oct, 2013 | Finn O'Neill

Finn O’Neill meets a young inventor, a tattoo artist, and some locals with body art to understand the past, present and future of ink in Bolivia. Olmer Flores Pinedo is a 14-year-old alteño kid,...

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED

20 Oct, 2013 | Christina Grünewald

Can Bolivia’s biggest Second-Hand Market satisfy the current fashion demands?Christina Grünewald combs through the flea market of El Alto, trying to find an entire outfit inspired by current Wester...